April 28: Reedville, VA

This morning, we had a rough but uneventful crossing of the Bay back to the western shore. Tom spent 30 minutes in the rain getting TNTY’s property docked at the Reedville Marina. I am glad we got in to Reedville when we did because this afternoon there are high winds in the Bay with a tornado watch until 8 PM tonight. It is nice to be moored safely in the harbor (even though the Crazy Crab restaurant is closed until the 1^st of May). We are docked right next to the Marine Police boat (seemed like a good place to leave the boat for a few days). Also on guard are about 25 assorted sea birds, so we might need to wash the boat when we get back!

We are in the tiny hamlet of Reedville on the Cockrell Creek off the Great Wicomico River. The criteria for choosing this location was to find a place to leave the boat, south of the Potomac, for our drive home to attend to some things in Raleigh. The town of Reedville is on the National Registry of Historic Places being named after Elijah Reed who moved here from Maine in 1874. When Reed found the Bay full of menhaden fish and no one was harvesting them he established the first Menhaden processing plant in Reedville. We came by a fleet of huge menhaden fishing boats as we entered the River. They were much larger than the shrimp boats we see in NC. At one time there were 60 ships working out of this area. By the beginning of the 1900s, Reedville was the Menhaden capital of the Bay, and had the largest per capita income of anywhere in the nation. We walked by several Victorian mansions including a beautiful four story brick house that was built in 1887 with fish oil money. They fished for Menhaden using seine nets and airplane spotters directing two small boats who encircled the fish and drew them up to the large fishing boat. Menhaden are a small oily fish used to create the Omega (fish oil) vitamin supplement that you should be taking.

Tom and I walked up to the Fishman’s Museum and saw some of the wooden boats that were once used in the unique herding / fishing process. Then we walked Sidney in the pouring rain and had to leave all the wet clothes on the back deck before coming in to get everyone dry. Tonight we are having dinner on the boat; the spaghetti sauce left over from the last Sunday School social was delicious partnered with Sharyn West’s home made bread, we were quite well fed.

April 27: Sunay, To Tangier Island

This morning broke with overcast skies, and Tom and I took the short walk down Market Street to the historical, white shingle- sided Onancock Baptist Church. We were surprised to discover that the front door was locked even though there was a sign promising an 11 AM worship service right next to it. As we were deciding what to do, we noticed couple of kids going around the side of the church and decided to follow them. We went around the corner, down the side of the church and across a parking lot to a large building. There we received a friendly greeting at the door, and inside found a contemporary Sanctuary filled with families with young children, older couples and youth. Based on the variety of acceptable dress, I decided to slip off my dress shoes and put back on the black tennis shoes I was carrying in a bag (relief)! The service included baptism, a message on Jonah (getting a second chance to do what God told him to do) and lots of singing Christian praise songs we knew, so we felt right at home. It was uplifting to go to a strange place and find such assurance that God was working there.

We shared our pew with a young family, daddy, expectant mom and two little boys. The daddy of the family knew all about the tomato farming in the area. The fields we saw yesterday, he told us, were planted by hand by workers sitting on platforms hung out over the rows from a large vehicle. He also explained the hideous smell in the neighborhood where we saw the spreader was chicken fertilizer. Wow... only breathe out. He also said that the harvesting was all done by hand in the same manner as the planting (the pickers ride). Since lots of tomatoes are left in the field, there is a lot of gleaning done (this reminded me of the story in Ruth where Boaz told his workers to make sure they left enough for the gleaners). I really love tomatoes- too bad I don’t live closer!

After church and a plate of lasagna at Stella’s Restaurant, we headed back to the boat to shove off. The Bay was rough today, more like I had expected it to be, and it was about an hour and a half cruise to reach Tangier Island. Here we took a step back in time.

The uninhabited island was first visited by Capt. John Smith (British adventurer and Virginia colonist) in 1608, and he named it Tangier Island. It was used by the British as their sea headquarters during the War of 1812. The British fleet attached Fort McHenry from here in 1814, and that battle was immortalized by Francis Scott Key in the athem, “The Star Spangled Banner.” Our first view of the island was rows and rows of little white fish houses built on stilts over the water. The houses were flanked with docks overflowing with crab pots and mooring white low slung crabbing boats. Over 90% of the income of the island depends on crabbing. We were greeted at the Park’s Marina by Mr. Park, a native of the island and he helped us tie up on the T-head. It was interesting to find that the docks were filled with frisky kitties, that were decrying the fear of water by leaping on and off of the fishing boats, obviously very comfortable with there home here. Mr. Park said that they occasionally fell in the water and “cussed and grumbled as they swim ashore”. One of them was a tortoise-shell cat that made me miss our Sabby cat at home and Tom found one jumping off of our boat later that evening.

Mr. Park was nice enough to give us a ride around the island’s single lane road in his golf cart (the normal mode of transportation). We saw the local school house (1^st – 12^th grades), several sea food restaurants and neat little homes some of which had graves in their front yards. The homes are built at ground level, not like our beach houses at Emerald Isle, NC, and do flood when hurricanes come through. We saw a “crabbery”, or crab prison, which was dock enclosed with fence wire and boxes where they could pump water through them. When they sorted the crabs, they put the peelers in the “crabbery” to fatten up until they shed their shells and could be sold as soft-shelled crabs. Soft shelled crabs are the most lucrative way to market crabs. Mr. Park was impressed that my Momma served us soft-shelled crabs at home, but I confessed that it was a delicacy that I passed up, choosing shelled out crab panned in butter instead. I felt very much at home with all the crab industry discussion, having caught my own blue crabs on a dock on the Trent River in New Bern as a child. All you needed was a chicken neck, a piece of string, a long handled scoop net and a basket. The basket was really important, because no one wants to share the dock with a loose blue crab with his pincher raised.

Back at TNTY, Tom is cooking waffles for our dinner, and Mr. Park has promised to give us a ride to Mrs. Crockets (the famous) for breakfast in the morning. There is not much cell phone signal strength here... not sure when this will get to the blog.

April 26: To Onancock, Va

It was fun to see fishermen putting out crab pots as we crossed the Bay today. We also saw more ospreys. Just look at the size of the "twigs" they used to build their nests. Pretty amazing that they know just how to do it.

Onancock was settled in 1607 as the 2^nd port in the state of Virginia. We managed to find it at the end of a long, narrow channel on the eastern shore of the Chesapeake. The Onancock Wharf is run by a fellow who graduated from Duke and spent 30 years as a chaplain in the military. Tom chatted with him as we moored TNTY. Taking our bikes out again for a 10 mile ride through the country, we discovered a massive agricultural area. There were acres and acres of rows of stakes scientifically laid out so that every 6 rows there was a wide service row there the tractor or spraying equipment could drive. It was a massive operation and we saw huge green farm equipment in the process of spraying something on the tiny sprigs of plants poked through the dirt next to the stake. We thought perhaps they were tomatoes, or maybe a running plant like green beans. There was an irrigation system several 100 yards long which could be rolled across the acreage. The most amazing thing about it is the intensity and expense of the operation with just the hope of having a crop. What faith it requires to be a farmer, trusting that the sun and moisture will make the seedling grow and produce fruit. God bless them. On our ride we also discovered the First Baptist Church of Onancock that worships together at 11 AM on Sunday. So we will join them tomorrow.

Next to the wharf there was a old mercantile building that was built in 1842. It looked very similar to my Grandmothers country store in Round O, SC. It had heavy dark wood counters along both sides of the store where the proprietor got what you wanted from the shelves behind the counters. The restaurant upstairs was Mallards at the Wharf, where we had dinner along with eight beautiful young couples on their way to Prom. After dinner, Tom and I walked down town and found a local theater production of “Always, Patsy Cline” and decided to check it out. The small theatre had about 100 seats, and every single one of them was filled. There was an air of excitement about it, and it seemed that everyone (except us) in the theatre knew each other. The actors sang many of Patsy’s songs as information about her life intertwined with the music. I did not remember that Patsy died in an airplane crash at age 30. We recognized many of her songs, and the actors and musicians were very talented. It was a fun surprise way to spend the evening.

April 25: To Yorktown

We had great service at the Deep Creek lock this morning, and were the only boat going through heading North. The lock master told us stories of the work they did during Hurricane Floyd with 7 foot waves inside the locks. The lock doors sustained $1.2M of damage, but they were able to hold back water surges from the Dismal Swamp to protect Portsmouth. We soon said goodbye to the still beauty of the countryside.
If I name all the things I have seen today, can you guess where we were next? Huge steel lift bridges, aircraft carriers, battleships, a helicopter, cranes, barges, tug boats, coast guard boats, a strange water going military tank, ocean going freighters loaded with steel girders and tractor trailer containers. Yep, you’re right. We were in Norfolk. We stopped at the Tidewater Marina, a low two story tan and white building, flanked by several docks full of yachts behind a breakfront. It reminded me of a place my family had stayed on a similar trip 40 years ago. We refilled our water tanks and picked up 300 gallons of diesel fuel before heading out into Baltimore Channel, the wide waterway leading to the Chesapeake Bay.
We rounded Fort Story and the abandoned Cape Henry light house at the First Landing State Park, and went over the Hampton Roads tunnel and were surprised to see the Bay amazingly calm. When we checked the depth gauge, it read 70 feet deep, and we could barely see land, but the water was glossy and just gently rolling (NOTHING like the Pamlico Sound!).

This afternoon we docked at the Riverwalk Marina in Yorktown and took in the historical sites. Tom got our bikes out and we took a 14 mile ride around the Revolutionary battle fields of Yorktown. We cycled around the paved walkway that led through the encampment areas each marked with their commanding officer and regiment. We saw where George Washington’s tents were set up and where the spring was that provided their water. Lord Cornwallis had fortified Yorktown for the British as his base for controlling the Chesapeake Bay. In October of 1781, George Washington led a combined force of American and French soldiers to defeat the British at the battle of Yorktown, the deciding victory for the revolutionaries. We also rode through the town on our way home. We saw the Grace Episcopal church that dates back to 1667 and the Nelson home which was built in 1712. General Thomas Nelson was Commander of the Virginia Militia and later signed the Declaration of Independence. It was a beautiful ride, the weather was perfect, we needed the exercise, and it was interesting to get the refresher on our country’s history. I am so glad we came to Yorktown.

We awoke early this morning to discover that the TNTY was engulfed in fog! We had plans to return the rental car and get off by 8AM to catch the lock opening at South Mills at 11:00 AM. The radio said that local school openings were delayed for two hours for fog! So we decided to wait. We finally left at 10 AM for a beautiful ride through the Dismal Swamp Wildlife preserve. We took the Pasquotank River north cruising along with four sailboats also headed for the lock which begins the canal cut through the swamp.

We moored the boat at the NC/VA line to see the only Visitor Center on the Intercoastal Waterway. It has some cool exhibits about the history of the area including prehistoric swamp facts, wildlife in the swamp and an information about the digging of the canal. In 1763, George Washington at age 31 first visited the Dismal Swamp and called it a Glorious Paradise and we agreed. We did see some wild life – a few ducks, 2 snakes zigzagging in the water, a huge blue Heron souring through the tree tops and a Cardinal, but mostly we saw a still water mirror reflecting all shades of spring greens. I sat on the bow of the boat for a white this afternoon and these words came to mind “when I in awesome wonder, consider all the worlds Thy hands have made... Thy power throughout the universe displayed, then sings my soul”. There was such amazing beauty God has made for us.

Tonight we are tied up right by the bridge at Deep Creek, because the bridge doesn’t open again until 8:30 AM tomorrow morning. This was a lucky find. We had a great supper of enchiladas at the Mexican restaurant by the bridge. We also found an auto parts store across the street where we bought me a replacement cell phone charger (I left mine in New York). Tonight we are exercising with our new workout ball... It is great, and we have to do something to work off the calories of just riding all day.

April 22-23: Elizabeth City

5:55 AM at DayBreak: I am slipping out of the marina in a sleeping Elizabeth City with a blue gray sky just beginning to dawn. My drive takes me over the Elizabeth City bridge and out into Currituck County. I pass acres and acres of plowed farm land, rows upon rows of black dirt, almost as far as the eye can see, creating a feeling of great wholesomeness. There is an occasional homestead flanked by huge hardwood trees planted by a previous generation and old red barns with angled roof designs.

What a beautiful drive to the Norfolk bypass and the Norfolk International Airport where I catch my quick flight to New York. I have left the boat for a two day business meeting at IBM’s office at 590 Madison Avenue where my new manager works. What a contrast from my morning – lunch at the Trump tower and the rest of the day in strategy sessions. For dinner that evening 20 of us gathered at the Tang Pavilion on 55^th Street for a family styled Chinese dinner which was delicious. Since I couldn’t seem to catch a cab, I walked the 10 blocks from my hotel noticing all the grand shopping along 5th Avenue. This is where I led my shopping tour for a couple of retailers from Australia in January. And since the walk seemed like good exercise, I also walked back to my hotel. It was good to meet with these teammates face to face since so much of my work is just ideas shared with mysterious voices on the phone or remote contact through email. I feel much more connected after actually conversing with these people and knowing something about each personality and knowledge base. It was good.

While I was gone, Tom took his bike and visited the Coast Guard Station, the largest in the United States, with about 1000 enlisted men. They not only do search and rescue, but also repair aircraft (similar to Cherry Point, NC). He also went to the previously mentioned dirigible factory and the NC/VA visitor’s center near South Mills. All in all, he biked about 60 miles. He said that at the dirigible factory there was still a burned out hanger from an explosion during WWII. At that time they were using hydrogen for the filling gas which of course is extremely combustible; now they use helium instead. Next door to the factory, there was a group from Canada who were testing a newly designed wind turbine for generating electricity. It was a huge elongated bubble tethered on both ends which spun with the wind - fascinating. Also, he walked several miles from the marina in the evening to the Golden Corral to attend the local Kiwanis Club meeting and had a great time catching up with them and discussing future projects (like distributing dictionaries to third graders) with there incoming President – what else would you expect!

April 21: Elizabeth City

Sometime during the night, the boat stopped its constant roll and we woke up refreshed. Tom had picked up some fresh strawberries so we had a great breakfast. As we pulled out of the marina, we noticed that every piling had a visiting brown pelican resting atop. I was trying to steer and take a picture and still managed to miss hitting the dock.

Today we traversed the Alligator River/ Pongo River National Wildlife preserve. This waterway cuts through miles and miles of undeveloped land where the river was edged with cattails, marsh grass, shrubs, stark dead trees whitened by the sun, pine forests and even a blooming eastern red bud tree. We have not seen any animals in this stretch, but this area is beautifully primitive... just like how it would have looked when early settlers from England would have navigated the area. The Elizabeth City area was first visited in 1585 by the English who lived on Roanoke Island.

I wanted to get some pictures, but it was pouring down rain and we had all the windows zipped. It is amazing how much calmer the water and wind are today. The rain makes little splashing bubbles where it hits perfectly still water. I took a call from work this morning with acceptable cell phone reception and will attempt to get on line tonight to record our day on the blog. We spent the morning singing country songs, listening to Dixie 105.7 as we cruised along. Our timing was perfect as we arrived at the Alligator Bridge right at 12:30 and, along with 3 other boats made it through with the huge swinging arm just opened. Later in the day, we crossed the Albemarle Sound with lightening flashing in the distance. The water was rough, but not like yesterday. It is pretty cold today, so we are both wearing jackets that it seemed strange to be packing. On the way to Elizabeth City, we passed the US’s only dirigible plant, built during World War II, and now houses a blimp building firm still in operation. It was a huge grey oval dome on the banks of the Pasquotank River that you could see from miles away.

We cruised up the river in the rain until we reached Elizabeth City and docked at the city docks where we will be moored for the next couple of days. Tonight we discovered that we left my suitcase in Raleigh and our wonderful friend Ben is going to drive it up to us tonight so I will have something to wear in New York! We had a short walk around town and took some cool pictures of the water front. It was near this water front that Culpepper’s rebellion against the British government occurred in 1677. The Museum of the Albemarle is across the street and I am posting a picture of it.

April 20: to Belhaven, NC

April 20:

To Belhaven:

The adventure has begun. After worshiping at Trinity, we had a wonderful lunch with our family, Laurie and Brian having driven up from Atlanta to send us off. My fortune cookie at PeiWei said “Success is a journey, not a destination” – how appropriate. With the car well loaded, Julie Anna and Ben drove us to New Bern for the beginning of our “journey”.

As we shoved off from our home marina of the Bridge Pointe in New Bern, I noticed that there was more wave action than ever on the inside of the Trent River Bridge. We passed between the huge cranes constructing the bridge and headed into the wind. The ospreys have a new nest in the red channel marker just off Union Point. We came close by and saw the nest and the large brown and white bird with hooked beak and shiny eyes guarding the nest.

Getting diesel fuel at the new marina on Front Street turned out to be a very damp experience for Tom. With TNTY tied up to the floating dock, the stern faced into the rolling whitecaps. The waves breaking over the swim platform got Tom soaked filling the tanks. We took on 220 gallons and waved good-bye to Julie Anna and Ben and headed up the Neuse River. Notice that they are standing in the only dry spot on the dock while we filled up! More excitement - About 20 minutes beyond the New Bern bridge, we heard the tornado watch for Beaufort County on the coast guard radio. We checked into the radar on the NOAA website, and it looked like we had a safe path for navigation through to Belhaven and decided to go for it. We passed through both the Pamlico Sound and the mouth of the Pamlico River – both swelling like the ocean with the waves breaking over the windshield. Tom and I were both a little green as we pulled into the Belhaven Waterway Marina to tie up for the night.